The Yukon is wilderness on a grand scale. I drove down long empty highways with romantic names like Alaska and Dawson and the wonderful Dempster which leads right up into the Arctic. I walked through forests singing to warn the creatures within; travelled by canoe and boat over crystal lakes and flew in a tiny plane over mountains, glaciers and ice-fields. I panned for gold outside Dawson City, saw the cabins built by Robert Service and Jack London and watched a master carver fashion a huge totem pole. I trekked part of the Chilcot trail amongst the rusting debris left by desperate gold rush pioneers. I saw bears, porcupine, moose, and bald-headed eagles and met extraordinary people.